Insulation Calculator
Enter your room dimensions and what you're insulating. We'll size the order — batts, rolls, or bags of blown-in.
Advanced options
- Wall area
- 0 sq ft
- Ceiling area
- 0 sq ft
- Total area
- 0 sq ft
- With waste factor
- 0 sq ft
- Estimated cost
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How the insulation calculator works
For walls, the area is the perimeter 2 × (length + width) × height, minus a standard area per door (20 sq ft / 1.86 m²) and per window (15 sq ft / 1.4 m²). For ceilings/attics, it's length × width. Add a 10% waste factor for trimming and stuffing, then divide by the coverage of your chosen insulation form.
R-value by climate zone (US)
- Zone 1–2 (FL, S. TX, S. AZ) — walls R-13, ceilings R-30.
- Zone 3 (TN, NM, mid-CA) — walls R-13 to R-15, ceilings R-30 to R-38.
- Zone 4 (NC, OR coast, mid-east) — walls R-13 to R-15, ceilings R-38 to R-49.
- Zone 5 (Midwest, NY) — walls R-13 to R-21, ceilings R-49.
- Zone 6 (MN, WI, ME) — walls R-19 to R-21, ceilings R-49 to R-60.
- Zone 7–8 (AK, far north) — walls R-21+, ceilings R-60.
Insulation type tradeoffs
- Fiberglass batts — easiest DIY for new construction with exposed studs. Pre-cut to standard stud bays (16" or 24" OC). Cheapest material.
- Mineral wool batts — better fire resistance and sound damping than fiberglass. Slightly more expensive.
- Blown-in cellulose — best for unfinished attic floors and retrofitting walls (drilled-and-filled). Requires a rented blower or pro install.
- Rigid foam board — for exterior insulation, basement walls, or under slabs. Highest R-per-inch.
- Spray foam — best air seal but professional install (not in this calculator's scope).
Common questions
How many batts in a bag?
Varies by R-value and bay width. A typical R-13 fiberglass batt for 16" OC walls comes 8 batts per package, covering ~88 sq ft (8.2 m²). For 24" OC, 6 batts per package, ~96 sq ft (8.9 m²). Always check the package label — coverage and R-value are printed clearly.
What about vapor barriers?
In cold climates (Zone 5+), use kraft-faced batts or install a separate poly vapor barrier on the warm-in-winter side (interior). In hot-humid climates (Zone 1–2), the vapor barrier is on the exterior. In mixed zones (Zone 3–4), use unfaced batts and let the wall breathe.
Can I add more batts on top?
Yes for ceilings — laying R-19 perpendicular over existing R-30 brings you to R-49 and is a common upgrade. NOT for walls — compressed insulation loses R-value. Don't stuff R-19 into an R-13 cavity; it won't help.